Sunday, February 3, 2008

Nkhata Bay

... was where I went for New Year's with other volunteers. I'm using someone else's camera but unfortunately a lot of the pictures were deleted... like us holding a fish. :(
But Nkhata Bay (Lake Malawi) is so gorgeous. It made me realize how much I miss the water (Pacific Ocean).





So, after Christmas, we hitched a ride up to Mzuzu, the nothern major city (there are only 3 major cities in Malawi - in the south, central, north) and stayed there for 3 days. We locked ourselves in the Peace Corps rest house, ate pot roast/brownies/bread pudding/good food!, and watched Apocalypto, Knocked Up, Freaks and Geeks, Peanuts Christmas, How the Grinch Stole Christmas, and others (that's how deprived we are).


Then, on New Year's Eve, we rode down to the lake and camped out on the beach the whole day and night. It was so peaceful sleeping on the beach (though painful for my back) listening to the rain pitter-patter on the tent and the waves crashing. We somehow got fireworks too, so we were setting them off 2 feet from our tarp shelter. o_O But I love fireworks so that was pretty awesome! :)


Here are some more pictures of Mua Mission:







The church



A cool statue



Scary looking thing

Traditional Chingoni, one of the tribes in Malawi

Saturday, February 2, 2008

Welcome to my humble abode

Here are pictures of my house. I have a lot of stuff (i.e. furnitures) and nowhere to put my stuff, so yeah... Also, all the furnitures, buckets, utensils, plates, and stuff were accumulated from previous volunteers, so I didn't have to buy anything. But they did take up room. So we'll start with entering my house!

You can see straight into my backyard. That's my bike hanging by the wall with a map of the world on my wall. My bedroom is just to the right. Shifting to the left a little...




I have 4 chairs in the house... I use 2 for sitting... 1 for stuff... and 1 for cooking...




I don't know if you can see my cooker... but it's on the chair because...


I don't have a counter to cook on (they had taken out the slab for some reason and the lower slab is too low because my cooker's cord is not long enough). I've been still waiting for the mission to make the slab since August... I store my produce in those clay pots on the ground... to keep out the rats!


For some reason, someone decided to make a huge shelf and place it in the kitchen. So, I put all my utensils and stuff on the shelves. Then, you can walk out into my backyard.


The door on the left is for the kitchen... Most people cook with fire in their outdoor kitchen, but I don't use it. The drape on the left is the "door" for the "toilet". And then you can't see it, but you can turn left from the "toilet" into my "bafa" room. When you look right...




you'll see a lot of shrubbery. haha Those are banana trees and a papaya tree. I also have a refuse/compost pit that's covered by green. haha

I didn't take pictures of my bedroom or garden, so I'll save those for next time! And yes, I do have a garden! Sweet potatoes, corn, peanuts, soya beans, Chinese cabbage, bok choys, lettuce... and WATERMELONS! I'm hoping the pests won't eat my food. I'll be really happy if my watermelons succeed. I've only had one watermelon the whole time I was here. :(


And as usual, I end with pictures of cute kids. They were in my last post too. haha They're just so cute! :)

The Death Season

I didn’t think it really existed until now. People talked about the rainy season, dry season, harvesting season, sowing season, even the rat season (which I’ve become all too familiar with), and then there’s the death season. And it’s strange to think how it’s just a natural part of the life cycle and how well people react to it.

I attended my first funeral in Malawi just last week. It was the child of my youth club’s treasurer. He was only 2 years old. And it was so surreal to think that I had touched the child one day and even prayed for him. 24 hours later, he was dead. The funeral was somber as any other funeral would be. The most heart-breaking part was seeing and hearing my friend cry, “My child! My child!” (I had to really refrain from crying with him for fear of bringing attention upon myself.) I saw him 48 hours later laughing as he always was, though I could see the sadness in his eyes. He couldn’t even bear to look while I picked up a 2-year-old child. How do you comfort someone after he lost his only child? How do you make him laugh knowing that there’s an emptiness within him?

My youth club’s secretary lost his father to a car accident and his uncle to some illness all within two weeks.

This death season is unfortunately caused by the breeding of mosquitoes that come with the rainy season. Sadly, it’s the number one (and easily preventable) killer for under-five children. At our health center, there were only 52 cases of under-five children with malaria in October (pre-rainy season), and within just 3 weeks in January, there were 209 cases of under-five children with malaria – the aforementioned child being one of them. My friend told me that the child was given 4 types of medication, none of which worked. I guess it was too late, and he passed. When you’ve entered the advanced stage of malaria, you start to convulse uncontrollably, which can result in brain damage if not treated ahead of time.

If you’re worried about me, you shouldn’t – I’m taking my anti-malarial pills weekly (though they come with nightmares, nausea, hallucinations, among other things). I probably had, have, or will have malaria, but the medicine is already in my house if I ever need it, and my anti-malaria pills are doing their duties to repressing the poison from being inserted into my blood.

But what about the other people who can’t afford to go to a private health clinic? Or to buy medication? What if the hospitals run out of medication? (Thank God for the U.S. Presidential Malaria Initiative, because they have distributed free medication to all health centers – public or private – for at least three months.) I can see the fear in people’s eyes, as people are frantically asking me and the health workers for mosquito nets. We had just done an assessment of the 92 villages in my catchment area (total population of about 39,000) and discovered that only 25% of children under five are using mosquito nets. So that puts the 75% of children at an increased risk of contracting malaria, which without being treated, can result in death. Currently, they’re only given out to antenatal mothers and new-born infants receiving their BCG immunizations, or with money, they can be bought in town. Previously, they were given out to all under-five children and were even sold in the villages for really cheap, but they were stopped for various reasons – one of which being that fishermen were using them as fishing nets. But now I’m frustrated and can understand the mothers’ fears. If malaria can easily be prevented by simply sleeping in a mosquito net (mosquitoes attack viciously at night), then why not just distribute them? There are times when I feel so helpless when I know that simple solutions are readily available to address an issue – and this is one of those times.

But on a lighter note (are my entries always this depressing? Sorry!), an aspect that I’ve been working hard on is addressing malnutrition. Since this is the sowing season, that means there isn’t any food in the fields, so a lot of children are malnourished. I was becoming so concerned when I saw them coming and leaving without anything being done. The World Food Program (in partnership with UNICEF or Action Against Hunger or some other NGO) used to provide supplementary food but they have withdrawn that program to only be used for those who are admitted to the nutrition rehabilitation unit or out patient department (usually the severely malnourished ones). So, now children come, are weighed, and leave without any record or monitoring of the underweight children. The most frustrating part for me was watching the health workers record their weights and not say a thing to them. I had to inquire about it a few times, but when I realized that they either didn’t care enough or didn’t know what to say or do, I had to take it upon myself to do something.

I’ve currently started a book to diagnose and monitor the underweight children’s weight and nutrition statuses. I’m also recruiting about half of the health workers with good counseling skills, so I can train them about nutrition, counseling, and food preparation. But because the mothers can only come for a short period of time and contact with the mothers is infrequent, I wanted to make the program as effective as possible in the short amount of time given. I’ve discovered that most people like to lecture and listen to themselves talk, so I realized that counseling is an important skill in order to make an education effective. At the same time, interactive activities benefit the mothers by allowing them to learn for themselves.

However, 20 minutes would not suffice for mothers to learn behavior change. So, another program I’m interested in implementing is the Positive Deviance Hearth. The main idea behind it is using mothers with healthy children as role models for mothers with malnourished children. After assessing the “positive deviance” behaviors that mothers use and the local resources they use, the 12-day program is implemented through the mothers sharing their knowledge and skills while learning that they can use what they already have to nourish their children. People often think that you have to feed them soda and other junk food in order to nourish their children (what do you think causes obesity in America?), and so they often resort into the “Woe is me, because I don’t have money” mentality. It’s amazing how a little education about nutrition can change one’s perspective. (I also realized how little I knew about nutrition before coming here; that was how much I took it for granted or how little I cared for it. Fortunately, my mother always prepared healthy food and subsequently taught me.)

I’m hoping that the monitoring book I’ve developed will help me to pinpoint the villages with higher malnutrition rates, as well as the types of illnesses or other causes that are major contributing factors to malnutrition. From there on, I hope to develop a malnutrition clinic once a month (already in place at other health centers) or another nutrition program.

But on an even lighter (and more amusing I promise!) note… about the Rat Season. I guess a certain little rat decided it would make his little home underneath my bed before I had moved into the house. I was hemming and hawing about getting a cat or using a trap (because I would have to inevitably touch the rat!), but I figured it was more cumbersome to lock up all my food away, stare angrily at my chewed-up plastic bottles, clean up after its droppings, and listen to the scrapings. Last month, I (as well as a few others) even saw the rat (or was it a mouse?) run around my house! I thought enough is enough! So, I asked my trustworthy agogo (“grandmother”) to set a trap and kill it while I was gone for New Year’s. I came home; the rat was dead! Hallelujah!! She said it was fat. Why wouldn’t it be? It was chewing up my plastics! Then, she served it to the crows. Serves it right for invading my home! (Sorry, I’m not usually that cruel. haha)

Yes, I know that “Ratatouille” came out recently. My mom kept telling me that I should watch it; my brother told me she watched it twice and demanded him to send me a copy of the movie. I thought, why?! I hate rats! So you may find it amusing to read about my rat problems and hear about how awesome and amazing Remy – a rat – is. I watched it and I had to laugh; I don’t think my rat was planning on becoming a world famous chef. But I think some other chefs may have been planning on using him, though. (My neighbor wanted to eat him, but the wife refused.) There was a bonus feature about rats’ rights and I had to think, wow. I almost wanted to start justifying that they didn’t have rights! According to Remy (the main character) or was it Emile?, all the rats wanted were “garbage to eat”. And I thought, well, Malawi is so poor; there’s no food to eat, much less garbage to spare; and I don’t want to risk being bitten by a rat (several people have told me about rats being so hungry that they’ve bitten people’s feet in the villages). O.K., maybe I’m taking the movie too seriously! haha But seriously, though, I couldn’t stand having it in my house any longer. So, I’m rejoicing that my house is now rat-free (for awhile at least)! I’m still waiting to get a cat, but I didn’t realize how difficult it would be to get a kitten. If it’s that difficult, I might end up getting a ferret, because better yet, they eat rats. But I heard they’re naughty and sly. We’ll see. :)

Thursday, December 27, 2007

Happy New Year!

I know I haven't been uploading pictures of my place, so I thought I'd start with the basics: my bathrooms. haha I'll update with pictures of my house next time.



My "bafa" room
I just put a bucket of water on one side and another bucket of toiletries on the other side, and I just pour water on myself. :P



This is my toilet. I thought it best to cover the hole. You'd see the cockroaches... and the crap my night guard left on the side.




The boys from the youth group killing a chicken and cooking for the ladies.

Gender equality. :)


A Christmas feast at my house with the youth committee.


My neighbors - these are the cutest kids ever! :) (The little girl on the left is a brat though. She spies on me through my fence!) The baby's my favorite! haha
I'll be heading out to the lake for New Year's Eve. Peace out.

Friday, December 14, 2007

Why should it be MERRY Christmas?

Shouldn't it be JOSEPH Christmas? Ha ha ha
CHOSANGALALA CHOKUBADWA CHA YESU KRISTU!

Whew! That was a mouthful! I think I better to stick with saying “Merry Christmas!”

I’m sending my wishes early because I’ll be in the village for Christmas. I’m curious what it’ll be like. I heard that people are either at church all day or they drink beer all day.

I’ll be reflecting all day on this past year. The most interesting things (sorry, my life’s not that interesting here) that have happened since I’ve been in Malawi include:
-hitchhiking and riding in the back of a pickup truck for 4 hours
-an 18-second earthquake (2 missionaries from Chicago who were here were about to pack up and leave while I just went back to sleep thinking that I was hallucinating)
-a scorpion biting my in-charge, which was inevitably slaughtered by my night guard
-attending a Muslim wedding where I was kinda made a guest of honor, so I had to sit next to the best man who gave me a 10-minute lecture about giving more money during the “reception” aka fund-raising party
-a Member of Parliament who’s also the Minister of Finance came to my market for a political rally… I stayed, oh, maybe 10 minutes.
-World AIDS Day…

The youths and I walking to the Opening Ceremony

The youths who organized a drama, traditional dance, and choir

Anyway, last time I mentioned about World AIDS Day. On December 1, I walked for over an hour to a primary school where the opening ceremony was to take place. It was awesome. There were at least 500 people there. I didn’t realize what a huge deal it was, because the Senior Chief (one of several hand-picked by the president; I’ve been to his house but wasn’t able to meet him yet), other chiefs, and all the important district officers were present, as well as one of the Malawian reggae bands (the lead singer is a Member of Parliament but of course he wasn’t actually there). I had the privilege of watching my youths’ drama group perform about leadership. The story was about parents forcing their daughter to go into town to prostitute herself to bring an income into their family, but a pastor, business managers, and some others were teaching them that they cannot force her into prostitution and that as the heads of the family, they have to desire what’s best for her. Or something like that. There were a bunch of other dramas, choirs, musicians, and traditional dances too. There were a bunch of speeches too, including some HIV-positive survivors speaking about their experiences (unfortunately, I don’t understand Chichewa well enough to know what they shared). Overall, I’m really proud of my youth group, because they had put a lot of effort into their drama (the choir and traditional dance groups didn’t make it into the program).

The more I thought about leadership in regards to the HIV/AIDS pandemic, I realized that I had to be an example of good leadership and not just preach to the youth committee about leadership. So, I told them, “Ask me any questions you have about sex, HIV/AIDS, relationships, rape, family planning, etc.” I was amazed at how well it went and how much I actually knew. The questions they asked were like, “If I’m in a relationship, can I still be a good leader?”, “If someone got pregnant and married young, can she tell other girls to not get pregnant and marry young?”, “I heard that when a man and woman has sex, the woman is more likely to get HIV. Is that true?”, “If a man rapes a woman and he’s HIV-positive, can the woman get HIV too?”

Man. Those were some tough questions. But the discussions we had were really good. And I was able to teach them what I knew. Like how they can prevent HIV by getting a drug called PEP within 72 hours after sex.

The most recent question I received that really baffled me was “After a woman aborts and has sex with a man, why is it that the man dies?” (Did you notice how they didn’t ask if the man would die but why?) There’s obviously misinformation in there somewhere.

But on a more personal note, I wasn’t sure I should share this but I thought maybe I should. In light of Christmas, I hope that instead of stressing out about Christmas shopping or depressing yourself over other personal issues, maybe you can find a deeper appreciation for what you have and actually appreciate your friends and family more.

So. For awhile I recruited a student to help me with a few chores so I can pay for her education. She’s an orphan and the vice head girl (kinda like vice female president) and is extremely hard-working according to her aunt and teachers. She’s also incredibly shy. But I keep finding out new things about her that surprise me. Like how she was pregnant and had a child when she was 16 or 17. (She’s 18 now.) Most girls don’t go back to school after their first child, but her aunt really wanted to encourage her to go back to school since her twin sister also had a child and her younger sister dropped out of school. So, her aunt and her grandmother took care of her child while she went back to school. And then at the end of the term, she told me that she was sick and dropped off the face of earth without telling me another word. A month later, I found out that she’s pregnant again. Her aunt was obviously really disappointed, because she knew that I was giving her a really good opportunity.

I was discouraged, because well, her chances of going back to school after having her second child is really slim now. And she really had a lot of potential. But I’m also discouraged at how many girls drop out of school because of teen pregnancy and how difficult it is for them to pursue higher education. Usually about 1/10 girls would actually complete her secondary education. The other 9 either get pregnant early or marry early or don’t care enough about education to make it through secondary school. Malawians are shocked to find out that more than 50% of college students in America are actually females. I want to encourage girls as much as I can to complete their education and to emphasize my point, I tell people “I don’t want to marry until I go back to college again.” As for the girl I recruited, I’m keeping my fingers crossed that there will be a third chance.

My other issue is that my tutor, who has also been my best Malawian friend here, recently told me he wants to get tested for HIV (without any of his students knowing). I can’t imagine how nerve-wracking it can be to think that you might have HIV. It was nerve-wracking for me to think that he might have HIV. His sister actually does have HIV and it was kinda heart-breaking. The poor man has been carrying so many burdens that have angered him, broken his heart, and worried him. I wish there were more that I could do for him.

But somehow, he’s able to keep smiling without a concern and say, “It’s o.k. I know God has better plans for me.”

With that said, I hope you’ll be able to smile this Christmas too, no matter what stress or problems you have, and know that everything will get better in time. Merry Christmas! :)

My lame Rocky moment.
Sanjika Rock was where Chilembwe allegedly meditated.
It's where I go to meditate and get some privacy too away from the 3-foot spies.






Monday, November 26, 2007

Lack of Doctors and Nurses

I just read an article yesterday about the lack of staffing impeding the quality of service offered to HIV/AIDS clients. According to MSF (Medecins Sans Frontiers/"Doctors Without Borders"), South Africa's MSF has 74 doctors doctors and 393 nurses per 100,000 clients. As if that's not bad enough, Malawi's HIV/AIDS epidemic is a lot less contained than that in South Africa at its insane rate of 14% HIV positives with only 2 doctors and 56 nurses per 100,000 clients.

My health center is one of the handful of health centers that MSF has invested heavily in, so I'm priviliged to see all the goods that MSF is doing. But it can hurt your head just watching the nurses and doctors rushing about (actually, I think the doctor only comes to my site every once in awhile) and the clients waiting long hours.

Health care in general in Malawi is just bad. In my district, there are only 5 doctors, all of whom serve at the district hospital, so most villagers do not have access to the doctors. Though the health centers target the villagers specifically, the quality of health care may not be adequate enough due to inadequate staffing and inadequate supplies. In addition to lack of electricity (well, in my case, we have electricity but lots of black-outs), we cannot properly store the immunizations and medications. As for sanitation, most staff don't use gloves and have to hand-wash the bedding and sheets that women have given birth on. They dispose of syringes and other "hazardous" materials by burning them behind the health center (or in other cases, at the incinerator). Since we don't have a doctor, the in-charge of my health center is actually a medical assistant - just one notch up from nurses with just 2 years of medical education. Then, there are the 2 nurses. Well, I could go on and on, but I have to say it's pretty disappointing to see how bad healthcare is especially in comparison to America's. But I know that most people just do with what they can.

Sunday, November 25, 2007

My source of life

During my homestay at training, we worked on building a well. Here's the initial stage of removing muddied water before digging a deeper hole.










After filling up the bottom with rocks, we line the well with bricks and cement.






This wasn't in my village but this is what the final product of a safe borehole looks like. All the boreholes in Malawi look pretty much like this, including the one in my village. These are the villagers gathering around to celebrate the completion of a borehole!




But this is what happens when the community doesn't take care of their borehole well. The water from the pump drains out into another hole (thus dubbed an "unprotected well"), creating standing water, which allows mosquitoes to breed. And guess what? Mosquitoes carry the malarial virus that results in the number 2 deaths for under-5 children. See how something as simple as chlorinating your water or covering standing water can do to save lives?